New York #1 – Tangier Number Two

It's official: Lonely Planet has ranked the World's Top Ten Cities for 2011, and this city on the tip of Africa has made it to runner-up position, just after the Big Apple.  Here's what they say: From its extraordinary position perched on the northwestern-most tip of Africa, Tangier looks in two directions: one face towards … Read more New York #1 – Tangier Number Two


Tangier’s Plague of Black Mold

Once, in a doctor’s office, as he paged through a dermatology manual, I was in the uncomfortable position of discovering the incredible variety of freckles, moles, beauty spots, rashes, cancers, ulcers, and growths that can appear on the human body.  Luckily, whatever I had was in the benign category, but those pictures were indelibly seared … Read more Tangier’s Plague of Black Mold


Tangier in the N.Y.Times

Thanks to an alert friend who spots everything to do with Tangier, here is "Lost in Tangier," the recent New York Times travel piece by Matt Gross.  It's mostly about Matt Gross and his penchant for trying to get lost and always finding his way, which is an achievement in the medina of Tangier. He … Read more Tangier in the N.Y.Times


Gem of Tangier

… is the title that State Magazine – the monthly magazine of the US Department of State – gave to my article in their September issue (click here for the interactive edition; my article is on pages 22-23).  Here's a screen shot, with the text below for the nearsighted among you. – – – – … Read more Gem of Tangier


A Ramadan Evening To Warm the Heart

Once again, in a long tradition that now is a Tangier-in-Ramadan institution, the American Legation was the venue last night for a concert of Arab-Andalusian music.  And it did not disappoint.  The audience – despite one of the hottest days yet this summer – was fully into the swing of this rythmic music, one of … Read more A Ramadan Evening To Warm the Heart


Enchanting Book On America’s Legation

It’s out.  Diana Wylie’s book Enchantment: Pictures From the Tangier American Legation Museum.  And it’s a beauty.  At left, Diana shows me a chapter on Tangier’s International Zone era, from the galley proof of her book. In the book world, you shouldn’t judge solely by covers.  Not only is Boston University Professor Wylie’s book full … Read more Enchanting Book On America’s Legation


Ramadan Karim, Ramadan Karcher

Usually, I content myself with wishing everyone a happy month of Ramadan and proceeding to other matters.  This time, living in the medina of Tangier and observing the month of Ramadan as respectfully as a non-Muslim can, I want to carry it a step further.  Which is why we carried out a Big Clean of … Read more Ramadan Karim, Ramadan Karcher


Resurrecting Her 19th Century Tangier Consular Uncle

One of the joys of this job – a mix of citizen cultural diplomat, curator, and tour guide – is meeting some of the Americans who make their way to the Tangier American Legation Institute for Moroccan Studies.  TALIM, which means education in Arabic, is primarily a research center for scholars (we are the AIMS … Read more Resurrecting Her 19th Century Tangier Consular Uncle


Culture Diplomacy and Moussems

There should be a comma or two in the above title, adding an element of clarity to this post about the annual cultural Moussem of Assilah, an event which requires no invitation to attend, but just try to find out anything about it without traveling to Assilah.  No website (or rather, one that hopelessly jams … Read more Culture Diplomacy and Moussems


When Tangier Was Seen From the Sea

That's a rather silly title, given that millions of car ferry passengers and cruise ship tourists see the city on the Strait of Gibraltar every year from their ships. I guess what I meant is this: there was a time when three-masted sailing ships, men-of-war and of commerce, regularly moored off this ancient city on … Read more When Tangier Was Seen From the Sea